Article: Shannon Smith from FAIRLADY

Although make-up trends favoured lips this past summer, head-space was clearly elsewhere for the winter collections. Roberto Cavalli teamed smudgy eyes with a burgundy lip stain, and Versace's winged eye shadow was an ode to the hedonistic '80s. There are practically no holds barred when it comes to eye make-up, but one simple rule remains: It's lips or eyes, never both.

According to make-up artist Lara Whitehead, eyes are a little heavier than we've seen for a while. "Because complexions are paler, eye make-up also looks heavier," she says, "but now it's not so much black eye make-up as brown, applied in a smudgy way. It's softer than black, and very sexy." But don't think you can do "Nicole Kidman" pale without a little help; paler complexions show up flaws, so you'll need to invest in an effective skincare routine. The good news is that foundations are more popular now, and they hide a multitude of sins. Choose a foundation that contains a little powder, says Lara: "The finish of the skin is definitely more matte this winter."

The smoky look is combined with tight, sleek hair, which immediately draws attention to the eyes, says Jeanette Genis. There are two essential divides regarding hair this season; either bed-head hair that's tousled and looks like you forgot to finish it, or hair that's very visibly "done". You'll need to have confidence in your features to carry off such a sleek hairstyle, or loosen up a little: Take your hair back gently – it's still sexy; just wear it with a sparkle in your eye.

Hair

Wearing your hair off your face requires a good dose of confidence, because all attention is drawn to your features.

Step one
To make this style last, you'll have to put in a little spadework. Layered, thick, coarse or curly hair will have to be blow-dried until smooth before styling to get it looking sleek. This will also ensure that the style stays tight on your head. If you don't straighten it first, your hair will eventually lift or puff out.

Step two

Apply a styling pomade or wax to your hair if it's long and needs only to be kept smooth. If your hair requires hold as well, mix the pomade with a dollop of gel. Apply this to your hair and work it through.

Step three

Use a fine-toothed comb to make a low parting, then sleek your hair back into a ponytail at the nape of your neck. Secure it with an elastic band, taking care not to move the top or sides of your hair.

Step four

Roll your hair up on itself and then twist it into a chignon, tucking in the end. Secure with hairpins. To ensure that your hair stays put, use a little firm-hold hairspray.

Step five

Finish with a little gold hairspray for a beautiful sheen. Coloured hairspray is a great way to hide regrowth if you haven't had time to get to the hair salon for a retouch.

Make-up

If you have the time and the know-how, this make-up is pretty straightforward.

Step one

Apply your face cream and allow it to penetrate for five minutes. Blot off the excess with a tissue and powder over the eye area. This will ensure that your eye shadow goes on evenly.

Step two

Begin by lining your eyes with a dark brown eye pencil ­ this look requires eyeliner all around the eyes. After applying the eyeliner, use a sponge-tipped applicator, cotton bud or brush to blend it lightly.

Step three

Dip the tip of an eye-shadow brush into brown eye shadow and tap off the excess. Starting at the centre of the lid, brush on eye shadow in one movement towards the outer edge of the eye. Repeat the process until you are happy with the intensity. Next, using the eye shadow you already have on the brush, shape it down towards the inner corner of your eye.

If you need more eye shadow, pick some up, but remember that you should always start with a little and build up the colour. Do not apply too much eye shadow at one time; you could find that you cannot get it off without destroying what you have already done. Use a thinner eye-shadow brush under your eye. Again, pick up eye shadow, tap off the excess and start at the centre of the eyelid. Sweep on eye shadow towards the outer edge, then blend towards the inner corner. Use a sponge-tipped applicator to apply gold eye shadow at the inner corners of your eyes.

Step four

Remove any excess eye shadow that's fallen under your eye and apply foundation and powder. If the eye shadow around your eyes appears to end abruptly, use the same brush you used previously to apply eye shadow and soften the edges. Apply at least two coats of mascara.

Step five

Brush on a neutral blusher and line your lips with a beige-coloured lip pencil. Fill in with a velvet lipstick of the same colour.

Step six

Line the inner eyelid with brown liner for more intensity and comb your eyebrows. Press on a little more powder if your skin is too shiny, particularly on the T-panel. End with a little gloss for evening glamour.

If you're worried about spilling eye shadow under your eyes, make them up first, then apply your foundation. That way you can simply wipe off any spillage without destroying your foundation.

Model is wearing:

Foundation: Revlon Age Defying All Day Lifting Makeup with Botafirm SPF 20 in Nude Beige.
Powder: Estée Lauder Aeromatte Ultralucent Pressed Powder.
Blusher: Revlon Powder Blush in Tender Plum.
Mascara: Chanel Lash Building Mascara in Brown.
Eyebrow pencil: Yves St Laurent Eyebrow Enhancer Duo No 2.
Eye shadow: Clinique Color Surge Eye Shadow­ Super Shimmer in Rum Spice.
Lipliner: Clarins Long Lasting Retractable Lip Definer in Just Nude.
Lipstick: Clarins Lipstick No 25.
Nail polish: Yardley Longwear Nail Polish in Nude.

Credits:

Photographer: Jacques Weyers
Photographer's assistant: Damon
Hairstylist: Jeanette Genis
Make-up artist: Lara Whitehead of Monopole
Stylist: Marleze Coetzee
Model: Charlene of Zero