New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

Reflecting the US economy's recent slump, designers at New York Fashion Week have chosen to play it safe this year, covering up in classic cuts and muted tones.

Badgley Mischka was pure class as usual. The collection was filled with fabulous florals, floppy felt hats and high suede boots. Models in tweed pencil skirtsuits sashayed down the runway and the eveningwear in shades of purple were to die for.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

We can always expect to be surprised by the fabulous Betsy Johnson. Her collection this year was titled 'Beatnik Romp'.The look was very dark, lots of black, bold colours beatnik-inspired, slim-lined, and full of leotards. Models wore mix-and-match pieces like a twill blazer, a suede wrap skirt, a zebra cardigan, Lurex leopard leggings. Tons of fun.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

A mix of luxurious opposites was the look of the Bill Blass collection. There was an intermingling of masculine/feminine, high/low, day/evening wear. Models strutted down the runway in jaunty outfits inspired by original Blass look from 1969 and 1970. Classic elegance.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

The Calvin Klein autumn collection was almost regimental in its discipline. Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein's head designer focused on tailoring and minimalism. The models were nearly makeup-free, their hair pulled back in severe ponytails, and the clothes were just as uncompromising.

Costa focused on jackets and only showed three special-occasion dresses: accordion-pleat gowns that draped from one shoulder or dipped low in front.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

Cythnia Rowley went playful for her autumn collection. Models donned lots of appealing shirtwaist dresses in gorgeous dark plum and teal colours. Clothes were detailed with tucks and pleats and sheer hems. The models looked playful in oversized let's-play-dress-up outerwear.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

'Foreign Affair' was the theme of Diane Von Furstenberg's fall collection. 1940's glamour inspired the look.

Bow-front blouses, flaring A-line skirt or full-leg trousers and cinched waists with narrow leather belts featured strongly. Fabrics were herringbone and glen plaid which met dove-gray floral prints, ginhams and silks. This collection showed that glam is back in a big way.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

The autumn collection by Donna Karan was a departure from her usual look with jewel-tone chiffon dresses that dipped dangerously close to the belly button in front, or went low on the sides and gathered loosely at the waist before gently falling to the knees. Others were draped toga-style in jersey, with elaborately knotted crisscrossing straps in back.

Karan also featured structured suits that had a distinctly feminine feel with a rose cashmere tweed cardigan jacket and wrap skirt with gentle curves.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

Tommy Hilfiger went for a pure, clean, and understated look for his autumn collection. Princess coats, sheath dresses, and tunic tops over wide trousers adorned the models.

Body-hugging knit dresses and a mixed-pattern ensemble of a plaid bow blouses and polka-dot skirts gave his collection a frisson of youthful energy.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

Calm. Glamour. Casual. Beautiful women was the inspiration for Marc Jacobs' autumn collection. With a focus on jackets and coats in a palette of soft pastels and grays and the relaxed somewhat masculine cut of the classic clothes. Jacobs showed plain-front button-downs with straight skirts; almost preppy popcorn-knit sweaters with narrow shorts and cashmere sweaters.

Dresses also featured and came with pronounced volumes at the back and for evening the dresses stiff folds were replaced by gold or silver lamé pantsuits and drippy bias-cut velvet gowns. Pure Marc Jacobs.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

Plaids and tartens were huge at Ralph Lauren. His autumn collection visited the country and the city. He showed city dresses and suits in cashmere herringbone and black double facing cut close to the body.

He left the urban terrain and headed to the West with swing jackets, red-and-black buffalo plaid suits, cozy blanket coats and fitted plaid hunting jackets.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

The street was the inspiration for Vera Wang's autumn collection. There was a hipper edge to her collection with layered silhouettes. It came across most clearly in youthful-looking sleeveless peplum tops in techno brocade or pleated ottoman, worn with tapering satin leggings. The sculptural bed jackets in quilted faille were equally cool. Gorgeous.

New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 08

The autumn collection of fashion wonderboy Zac Posen referenced Minnie Mouse and invoked a bordello feel.

Models wore pompoms on either side of their tight chignons, and many of the dresses were sheer enough to reveal spangled underwear and black garter belts.

His collection was tailored to perfection but seemed more fitting for dolls than living women.

Compiled by: Jenna Shevel.
Pics: Getty/Gallo Images.