1 Remove the doors, hinges and all
hardware such as handles and locks and
fill up holes and damaged areas with
wood filler; smooth with a putty knife.
2 Measure the dimension of the
cupboard opening(s) and cut the roller
track to size using the hacksaw. If you are
fitting it to the underside of the cupboard
frame make sure to fix the track flush
with the top edge of the cupboard using
the screws provided.
NOTE The roller track width measures
50mm (depth) and, due to the fact that
the centre partition and shelving of our
cupboard extended all the way to the front
of the cupboard, we needed to modify
ours by creating an additional framework
that protruded 60mm all around the
opening. The extra 10mm is needed for
the roller plates and for the doors to slide
past each other unimpeded. We used the
69mm x 12mm (top and sides) and the
44mm x 22mm (bottom) meranti planks
for this and fixed these in place with
wood glue and 35mm chipboard screws.
Meranti planks were favoured above pine
as it is a denser wood, better suited to hold
the screws for the rail.
3 You will need to remove about 40mm
from the length of existing doors to allow
for the height of the track and roller
hangers. Measure and mark a line along
the top of the door(s). Now use the jigsaw
to cut the doors neatly to size.
TIP Use the straight edge as a guide for
the jigsaw in order to make a perfect cut.
4 Use the combination square to properly
position the roller plates an equal distance
from either side of the doors, as shown.
Hang the doors in place and fit the door
guides. Fit the back guides followed by the
doors with guides in between.
NOTE The roller plates have one round
hole and two diagonal slots. The round hole
creates a pivot point while the diagonal
holes allow for adjustments to be made at
a later stage. Therefore you should place
the screws about midway along these slots
when fixing the roller plates in place.
IMPORTANT: Two sets of roller plates
accompany a track kit – one set has a
'deeper' bracket and should be fixed to
the door(s) that will hang from the front
of the track. If your doors are thicker than
22mm the deeper bracket is to be placed
at the back.
5 Use the cordless drill and 32mm diameter
speed bit to create holes in the doors for the
finger pulls. Position these holes about 30mm
from the edge of the door.
6 Fix a fascia in place to hide the rail, roller
hangers and the top edge of the cupboard
door(s). We used 69mm x 12mm meranti for
this, but pine would work equally well.
7 (Optional) Fix the castors to the base of the
cupboard. You may have to create a framework
onto which the castors can be fixed if the
cupboard has a plinth or false bottom. We
used 69mm x 12mm pine planking for the
framework of our cupboard.
8 Fill all holes, blemishes and exposed screws
with wood filler. Once dry, use sandpaper and a
sanding block to lightly sand the entire surface
of the cupboard to ensure that the paint bonds
to the surface. Dust the cupboard properly
with a soft cloth before starting to paint. Use a
brush and a high-density foam roller to achieve
smooth results and paint two to three layers,
leaving the paint to dry thoroughly between
each coat. The first coat should be a multisurface
or wood primer. We used white for
the outside of our cupboard and a pale blue
(Bristol's Harbour City, available from Builders
Warehouse) for the doors.
